Coppedè District: Where Even the Buildings Get Drunk on Beauty

Architecture doing the twist down the streets of Rome.
May 7, 2024 by
Coppedè District: Where Even the Buildings Get Drunk on Beauty
Alessandro Liggieri

The Coppedè District in Rome: A Corner of the World Where Buildings Have More Personality Than Most Reality Show Stars 

A fantastic journey into the unreal

Seriously, what's better than a Saturday afternoon in Rome? You might be tempted to say "gelato," but you'd be wrong. The correct answer is wandering through the Coppedè District and wondering if the local architects had interned in Wonderland.


The Coppedè is less a neighborhood and more an architectural dream of Gino Coppedè, who apparently decided that if he couldn't be Salvador Dalí, he might as well build as if he were. Walking here, you expect a White Rabbit with a watch to pop out at any moment, or maybe a cat that vanishes leaving only its smile.


Tucked away in a well-hidden corner of Rome between Via Tagliamento and Piazza Buenos Aires, the Coppedè is a cocktail of styles ranging from Baroque to Art Nouveau, with a dash of Gothic and a splash of Art Deco. It's as if a group of architects locked themselves in a room with a full bar and started sketching after the third drink.


And it's not just a feast for the eyes. Every building is loaded with details so finely crafted you'd think Gino and his team might have had a bit too much free time. There's a sense of movement in every corner, with balconies that seem ready to take flight and windows that wink as if they know something you don't.


In this maze of architectural wonders, every step takes you into a new scene of this urban theater. It's not just a neighborhood; it's a living work of art, where even the streets seem to have forgotten they're just streets and behave more like tapestries for a Shakespearean stage.


The Coppedè District is a place you can't just visit; you have to live it, breathe it, and if you're like me, probably get a little lost in it. But in that case, what better place to lose your bearings than in a neighborhood where even the buildings seem to whisper stories of other times and magical worlds?

When Gino Met Art

Ah, good old Gino Coppedè! Not your average mortal, but a wizard of architecture, one who, when he met art, didn't just shake hands but danced a passionate tango under the awe-struck eyes of a Rome still clinging to its more traditional styles.

Here's the scoop: we're in the roaring '20s, and Gino, an architect of no ordinary caliber, decides that Rome needs a dash of whimsy. The Colosseum, the basilicas, and the sun-drenched piazzas weren't quite cutting it. No, Rome was ready for an architectural adventure, and who better than Gino to steer her through this jungle of stone and marble?

The Coppedè District became his canvas, the place where Gino would weave his intricate plot of styles, colors, and forms. Imagine an artist with a palette so full of colors he could paint a rainbow and still have hues to spare. That was Gino: an artist who saw architecture not as bricks and mortar, but as verses of a visual poem that only he could recite.

His work wasn't merely construction; it was an act of love, a challenge, almost flirting with the rules of architecture and laughing as he created balconies that seemed to float, roofs that defied gravity, and decorations that told better stories than many books. Gino knew that every beam, every column, and every window had its own character, and he was there, ready to introduce them to the world like a theatrical troupe ready to take the stage.

The result? A neighborhood that's more than the sum of its parts. It's a living, breathing work of art that surprises and seduces. People stroll its streets like visitors in an open-air art gallery, where every step unveils a new sculpture, a new painting, a new scene.

When Gino met art, he didn't just exchange pleasantries; he married it, brought it home, and made it live forever in the heart of Rome, in the Coppedè District. And for those who walk those streets today, it's impossible not to feel the echo of that bold tango that Gino and art danced together, leaving an indelible mark on the eternal city's history.

Marble Gossip

Ah, the Coppedè District, a place where even the stones whisper secrets, and the marbles murmur gossip. Yes, because this isn't just a place where architecture shows off; here, legends and curious stories are as much at home as the inhabitants.

Take, for example, the famous "Fountain of the Frogs." It's not just a fountain but a stage for anecdotes worthy of front-page gossip. The juiciest? That time when the Beatles, yes, the Fab Four, decided it was a good idea to take a midnight dip in its waters. Imagine the scene: global music stars jumping among stone frogs under the Roman sky, perhaps after one too many drinks or simply driven by a burst of freedom. A concert for frogs, ticket-free, that became legendary.

But there's more. It's said that those who wet their hands in the fountain's water or dare to challenge the frogs to a staring contest might find themselves blessed with unexpected luck. Or maybe just with wet shoes, depending on how much you believe in local tales.

And for mystery lovers, there's always the story of the stone dog that, at the stroke of midnight on St. John's Night, comes to life to run around the neighborhood, protecting lovers and scaring too-curious onlookers. Truth or fantasy? In Coppedè, the line is always a bit blurred.

The Coppedè District isn't just a collection of extravagant and fascinating buildings; it's a veritable book of stories written in stone and marble. Every corner tells a piece of Roman history, every sculpture hides an anecdote, every façade reveals a secret.

Yes, Coppedè is like that: a place where gossip is never trivial but carved in marble and whispered by fountains, a place where history blends with legend, and walking its streets means listening to the voices of a past that is never truly past.

Judgment of an Ironic Flaneur

Strolling through the Coppedè District with the critical eye of someone who has watched too many episodes of "World's Most Extraordinary Buildings" can be as hilarious as it is enlightening. If your idea of fun includes judging eclectic architecture with the severity a cat reserves for unwelcome guests, then welcome to my world.

The Coppedè, for those unaccustomed to Roman oddities, might appear to be the result of a dare between architects under the influence of questionable substances. "Hey, Gino, bet you can't mix all these styles without making a mess!" And Gino, holding his spritz in one hand and a compass in the other, replied: "Hold my Campari."

Every time I wander through this neighborhood, I can't help but think that Gino Coppedè was playing Tetris with buildings. Where else would you find a fusion of Gothic, Art Nouveau, Baroque, and a hint of Art Deco scattered about like Parmesan over pasta? Only in Rome, my friends, only in Rome.

As I marvel at these architectural follies, I ponder what the buildings would say if they could talk. Probably something like, "Was that cornice really necessary?" or "Sure, add another balcony, it's not like we're heavy enough already." Yet, despite this apparent chaos of styles, Coppedè possesses an undeniable charm. It's like watching a Wes Anderson film: you know every detail is exaggeratedly curated, but you can't help but fall in love with it.

I'd give this neighborhood a solid 9/10. Why not a full 10/10, you ask? Because, dear readers, perfection is boring, and Coppedè is anything but boring. It's a neighborhood that defies conventions, plays with art like a cat with a ball of yarn, and always leaves you something new to discover, even after the hundredth visit.

In conclusion, if you're the type of person who appreciates art when it makes fun of itself, then the Coppedè District is the place for you. It's a little alternative world where art meets irony, and where every step leads you into a scene from a movie yet to be written. If nothing else, it's the perfect antidote to the monotony of modern architectures that take themselves too seriously.

Why I Recommend It

If you like the ordinary, Coppedè might make you feel like Alice after she drank the wrong potion. It's a place for those who love the different, the bizarre, the incredibly artistic.

Why I Might Not Recommend It

The beauty of Coppedè isn't for everyone. It's like caviar: either you love it, or you wonder why people eat stuff that looks like fish eggs. But if you're the type who appreciates the uncommon, this is your place. 

I Give You Advice, Then It's Up to You...

Follow the blog for more extraordinary places and stories just waiting to be told. Don't be boring, come into the world of those who dare to see the different.

Seguimi

Coppedè District: Where Even the Buildings Get Drunk on Beauty
Alessandro Liggieri May 7, 2024
Share this post
Archive